Merida
catedral interiorIf you are like most people, you probably admire the
magnificence of such a simple and exquisite building as the Cathedral in the
city of Mérida. But do you know all of the history that surrounds it?
The
Cathedral of San Ildefonso receives its name from when it was assigned to the
head of the Archbishop of Toledo. It is considered the oldest church in the
Americas built on the mainland, second only to the one built on the island of
Santo Domingo, Hernán Cortés’ first landing point. Its construction, made from
the stones of the pyramids of the ancient Maya city of T’hó, began in 1561 and
the first stage was completed 37 years later, in 1598.
STYLE AND
FAÇADE
It is
considered to be Renaissance, mannerist style—subjective and abstract—as well
as Herrerian (the building is similar to the architectural style of renowned
Spanish architect Juan de Herrera); although the interior is noted by its Moorish
style, as are the towers.
The façade
contains the main door (“Door of Forgiveness”), which is only open on special
dates, flanked by the sculptures of Saint Peter and Saint Paul. On the sides
are four columns which symbolize the four apostles charged with protecting and
instilling the religion. Up above, in the center, used to be the Royal Spanish
coat of arms of Felipe II carved in stone, replaced in 1822 by the Mexican
post-colonial coat of arms as well as the eagle which was the symbol of the
first and only emperor of Mexico, Agustín de Iturbide. But there are still two
stone blocks on either side of this coat of arms, pertaining to the Spanish
kingdom.
The
machinery of the enormous clock was built in London in 1731, and gave the
correct time until 1871. On the north wall of the church, where there are still
various wooden crosses, is the entrance to a fresh-water spring, closed a long
time ago, noticeable by its walled-in arch.
CHAPELS
The
sacristy used to have five chapels. The three northern ones still remain:
dedicated to the Christ of the Blisters (1656) and to Santa Ana and to the
Baptistry (1904) respectively. The southern chapels, San José and the Rosary,
which united the headquarters of the Episcopal Palace (now MACAY Museum), were
demolished in approximately 1916 during the revolutionary period, in the
looting headed by General Salvador Alvarado; and in their place is the Pasaje
de la Revolución.
The Christ
of the Blisters was so named because during this looting, after starting a fire
in the Cathedral, it was noted that the Christ figure had blisters, which was
considered a miracle. It has been referred to in this way ever since.
THE BELLS
There used
to be an official bell ringer, who had his own room, measuring approxiamtely
4.5 meters by 2.5 meters, where he Merida catedral campanahad his hammock, a
candle, and a small organ. His job was to climb up and play the enormous bells
a half hour before each mass. At that time there was a mass every hour, so the
bell ringer had to have a tremendous will as well as a pair of good strong
legs. A bell ringer is no longer needed, as new technology allows this function
to be carried out mechanically with electricity.
INTERIOR
There are
three naves: a central nave and two side ones: the Gospel Nave and the Epistle
Nave.
Between
1903 and 1905, during the henequén boom, the choir was built to protect the
first of the Cathedral’s organs, which was manufactured in Germany.
Unfortunately, the organ was destroyed during General Alvarado’s looting. Its
successor, also from Germany, was built in 1938 by the same engineer. Today only
40% of its pipes still work.
There is an
oil painting of the Virgin dating from the 18th C, and a painting dedicated to
the chief of Maní, Tutul-Xiu, facing the base camp of Francisco de Montejo in
T’hó, as the city now known as Mérida used to be called.
During the
revolutionary period various altars and images were destroyed or disappeared,
including the revered Christ of the Blisters and the altarpiece at the back.
The Christ of the Blisters which is there today is a replica. Today there are
no remaining pieces of great antiquity.
THE CHRIST
In the
center of the interior is the wooden Christ, known as the Christ of the Unity,
which measures almost 8 meters high, and is carved from birch, positioned on a
mahogany cross which is 12 meters high. It is the work of the Spanish sculptor
José Ramón Lapayese del Río, made in the middle of the 20th C. It is believed
to be the largest made of wood in the Americas.
Calle 60 x 61 y 63,
Centro
Facing the Plaza Grande
